[Travel] The Gentleman’s climb

It is Saturday afternoon when I arrive in the town of Moshi, some 50km from the base of the big mountain itself. The trek had been pre-arranged through an Australian outfit by the name of Gecko’s Adventures, and so in a modest hotel on the outskirts of town I met with the 7 other people (Belinda, Paul, Laura, Laura & Nicole from Australia; and Simon & Jackie – a couple on their honeymoon from the UK) who would become my climbing companions over the next 6 days.

Taking the Marangu route (aka ‘the coca cola route’), the track moves through an amazing variety of terrain – starting with lush rainforest, moving through alpine grasslands and turning into barren volcanic plains up above 4000m. As far as trekking goes it was not exactly doing it rough, with huts to sleep in at night, a team of 24 porters and a cook who produced meals that would satisfy most even off the mountain. I ate well – possibly even putting on a bit of weight over the 6 days.

Cutting to the chase, after 3 days of very gentle uphill walking and one day of acclimatisation at Horombo huts we arrived at Kibo hut (4700m) ate some dinner then went to bed for a few hours before being woken at 1130pm ready to tackle the summit. This was ‘the big day’, and for many people who climb Kili it is one of the most physically challenging things they will ever do. Setting off at midnight we climbed pole pole (“Po-lay, Po-lay” translated as ‘Slowly, Slowly’) for 6 hours making it to Gillan’s point (5680m) right on the crack of dawn. Many people are fading fast at this point but here is where the guides step in and keep the clients moving (or back down the mountain in the unfortunate case of severe altitude sickness) for the remaining walk along the volcanic crater towards the summit. Besides the exhaustion and lack of oxygen, it is also very cold – it can get town to around -20 degrees at the summit. Fortunately everyone in our group made it to the summit, arriving around 8am and now covered in cloud, taking a few happy snaps before heading back down. It is then another 6 hour walk and some 2000+ metres of descent before arriving at Horombo huts by the late afternoon, sore and thoroughly exhausted. The 6th and final day is a fairly straightforward 20km back to the park gate, and then back to the hotel for a hot shower (however being Africa the power is out and the hot water not working properly).